This is definetly the best Fox shock that I've had on the Anthem X. I was really surprised that the 2011 Fox RP23 with Boost Valve compares really favourably with the Hugin. Its features are pretty unique in 165mm eye-to-eye shocks. The proper high and low speed adjusters on this shock (and lack of a platform) allow you to really dial this shock in. My favourite shock on the Anthem X to date has been the Magura Hugin - with this shock on the bike you simply forget its on there as it soaks up everything the terrain throws at it without fuss. For me this was about 140psi in the air spring.
Small bump compliance feels almost as good as propedal off, but propedal's there for cranking out the watts.Īfter playing around a little with air pressures which resulted in sag from between 10mm and 7mm I settled on 9mm of sag which provided the plushest feeling without wallowing in the mid-stroke.
propedal setting 1 - if you're a set-and-forget type of guy then this your setting.bottom out resistance is great - gives the Anthem X rear suspension a "bottomless" feel to it.lever to turn propedal off is a great thing - the Anthem X's maestro suspension doesn't really need a platform shock - with propedal off this shock is plush.propedal works - setting 3 on the Anthem X makes it feel like a hardtail, but small bump compliance is still there.Shock feels plush even on the firmest propedal (3) setting, which is really saying something. It does seem like Fox have finally arrived at a rear shock that has all the pedalling efficiencies of the propedal platform but none of the "platform" drawbacks. How does the 2011 Fox RP23 with Boost Valve go on the Anthem X? It weighs 211g including bushing and mounting hardware (only on top eyelet). It has a "L" rebound tune, "F" compression tune and 300psi in the boost valve.
Well i know its not the axle because if i put my finger on the bottom of the stantion then move the fork you can feel how its loose and moovesThis shock is off a 2011 Giant Anthem X frame. Now go do it, cause Id hate to think some dude with a similar, simple problem like mine sent his fork out to fox to get a bill for tightening his thru-axle lol. So yes I think you need to get to tightening up that thru-axle. Going from from snug to tight on my fork is the difference between dead and carving. I have one of the atomlab inverted forks, your arch should take up most of the slack and prevent the hub from wobbling like mine. If the right leg is the only thing left holding the wheel in place, logically that slack will only be felt on the right.
FOX FLOAT RP23 AXLE TO AXLE FREE
If the thru axle loosens, or the pinch bolts stretch or loosen a tiny bit, the axle is free to torque the right leg all over the place also consider the fact that your fox fork uses "hydrodynamic lubrication"- some slack is normal, as described by their service manual.
The only totally solid connection between your fork and wheel should be between your right leg and the thread on your axle, everything else kind of holds stuff in place. I then have a feeling of your described wobbly steering. And the right leg specifically starts flopping about audibly. My thru-axle has a tendency to unscrew itself in hard crashes the hub then starts wobbling- a lot. This might seem stupid, but have you tried loosening all the pinch bolts, then tightening up your 20QR or whatever the hell your 36 uses for a thru-axle?
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